Who sets the rules here? On the lower reaches of the Transfăgărășan, a mother bear advances with sovereign indifference, her bulk deliberate, her gaze fixed somewhere beyond human urgency, while two nearly grown cubs trail behind like inherited myths learning to walk. Snow slips from the sky in hesitant flakes, catching in their fur, the forest closing ranks around them as if this asphalt were nothing more than a rumor. This road was blasted through the Carpathians in the 1970s with dynamite and
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